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When traveling south along the coast towards Galle, you will happen upon a town where you will see fearsome looking masks on display at establishments lining. the road. This is Ambalangoda, a town famous for the carving of masks used in exorcism ceremonies and several forms of dance-drama. Why not stop awhile to relish Ambalangoda's unusual charm? |
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All down the west and outhern coast along the Colombo-Matara highway are towns and villages bursting with natural beauty close to the ocean. These places have been developed over the years especially with the tourist in mind so that they have a wide range of accommodation and restaurants, and many activities apart from lazing on the beach. It is strange, then, to find a town almost in the middle of this tourist development, 87km from Colombo, this is extremely low-key, undiscovered andunder-developed. Yet the famous mask-carving town of Ambalangoda is exactly that. |
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Ambalangoda doesn't have the beauty of Bentota and its activity-packed lagoon, nor the surfing waves and vibe of Hikkaduwa. It doesn't have the calm water and fine white sand of Unawatuna, but it’s a place of adventure and discovery rather than relaxation and luxury. Ambalangoda possesses a long stretch of wild beach you can explore all to yourself, and this gives you a feeling of seclusion hard to find on this coast.Ambalangoda is a large, bustling market town. With stalls selling anything from fresh fish to fruit and vegetables. A busy bus station surrounded by shops dominates the centre of town with the train station just slightly inland. People mill about among the market stalls that spill onto the road. There is a hum of voices and a buzz in the air. |
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However, it is not for the markets that you visit Ambalangoda. It is for the beach, its location, and for its history of mask carving and dance. The sandy beach is a good distance from the main road and is packed with colourful catamarans and fishing boats representing the main livelihood of Ambalangoda. For this reason the beach in town is not so suitable for throwing your towel on the sand and sunbathing as you could do in, say, Hikkaduwa or Unawatuna, further south. Neither is it the cleanest of beaches. Instead it is great for exploring and witnessing Sri Lankan daily life. Both beaches at the extreme southern and northern ends of town are the most picturesque, great for walking, and nearly always empty, though perhaps a little close to the main road. As a rule, be wary and follow the local advice about where to swim, as there can be dangerous currents. |
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Ambalangoda is most well-known for mask making and as a centre for south coast traditional dancing. Masks are made for three different types of dancing rituals: kolam, which tell satirical stories of traditional Sri Lankan colonial life, sanni, or devil dancing masks, used in a type of exorcism ceremony to heal people of persisting ailments believed inflicted by demons, and raksha masks, which are used in festivals and processions. |
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| Ariyapala Wijesuriya, the craftsman who made Ambalangoda famous for mask-carving, has been succeeded by two of his sons and many apprentices. The sons each have a museum on either side of the road, on a bend, 800m north of town. The larger Ariyapala and Sons Mask Museum is good visually and informatively since it displays explanations in both Sinhala and English around the connected rooms, which are filled with masks, costumes, photos and models. The Ariyapala Traditional Masks across the road is less interesting and smaller, though it does display some puppets. Both have workshops where you can see the masks being made, as well as large shops. |
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At the Bandu Wijeysuriya School of Dance southern forms of the kolam dances are taught as well as some traditional dances of Indian origin. You can drop by about 3pm to watch the performers practising and rehearsing - or even join in yourself! You may also be able to arrange to see a traditional masked dance. |
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Ambalangoda is also known for hand-woven cotton, finely carved wooden doors, and screens and lintels-though they are not easy to find in town. There is, however, a great place to buy batiks made by Dudley Silva. His shop is mid-way between the centre of town and the mask museums. |
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Branching out of town, there are some interesting excursions you can take. Seven kilometers inland from the main road north of town is south Asia's longest sleeping Buddha, located at the Galgoda Sailatalaramaya Maha Vihara. |
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It is 35m long, though since it has been recently restored it looks fairly modern. It is encased within a concrete building, decorated on the inside, along with some other colourful statues and figures. The views from the temple are beautiful, stretching to the faraway mountains. You can reach the temple by road or up the 208 steps used by pilgrims! |
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At Balapitiya, five kilometers north of Ambalangoda, you can take a boat trip up the Madu Ganga (river). This shallow body of water, its estuary, islets and its connection to Randombe Lake through two channels, make up the complex coastal ecosystem of the Madu Ganga Wetlands that was declared a Ramsar Site in 2003. Possibly the last remaining area of pristine mangrove forest in Sri Lanka, it is home to 303 species of plants and 248 vertebrate animals including many bird species. There are around 65 little islands that you will pass on your float upstream, inhabitants of which produce peeled cinnamon and cinnamon oil. On one of the islands is the Kodawa Vihara, which is a 150-year old temple where five monks live in meditation. There are plans to develop a sustainable eco-tourism program within the wetlands and educate villagers as it is already threatened by human activities and large-scale fishing operations. You can go with the Madu Boat Service or arrange a tour with your hotel. |
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Ambalangoda does not possess many guesthouses or restaurants. The rather aging though characterful Rest House, once a Dutch warehouse, is situated 200m from the bus station and the large but basic rooms have great sea views. The friendly Sumudu Guest House, along a side road from the bigger mask museum, is an elegant old colonial villa with six rooms. If you are after luxury you will have to travel nine kilometers north to Ahungalla to the Triton Hotel a five-star resort amid palm gardens and pristine beach. Even if you are staying in Ambalangoda, a dinner or lunch at the Triton Hotel is recommended. |
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