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Should you miss the famous Kandy Perahera in July/August do not fret, because peraheras — literally "processions" - are to be found elsewhere in the island throughout the year. For instance there is one in January at the Kelaniya Temple, conveniently situated just outside Colombo, which is a great tourist attraction, with drummers, dancers, and those pachyderms of the title. |
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The History of the Temple |
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The site of the temple, it is believed, was hallowed by Lord Buddha on his third visit to the island. The temple was at the height of its glory prior to the time the Portuguese conquered the country. However, in 1510 the temple was destroyed by them, the land was seized and Buddhists not permitted to worship there.
In 1767, during the reign of Kirthi Sri Rajasinghe - a different colonial era - the Dutch permitted the Kelaniya Temple to be reconstructed. |
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Although the temple is situated in the western part of the island, it had many sculptures and paintings which belonged more to the north-east, in particular Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa. I say "had" because during its downfall in 1510 all these ancient artifacts perished. The existing paintings and sculptures are recent possessions, belonging to the 18th century and early 20th century. |
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The Temple Today |
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You get a good idea of just how many people visit the temple when you enter the vast car park. Large trees abundant with delicate pink flowers outline the area. There are many vendors selling incense, oil, and bright purple and pink lotus flowers for offering. Tranquility surrounds you as you climb the 30 steps leading to the entrance,which has a makara thorana or archway, a symbol of local mythology. The design is invariably a combination of many animals and in this one you will find the trunk of an elephant, the body of a fish, the feet of a lion, the ears of a hog, the teeth of a monkey and the tail of a swan! |
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The temple is a splendid example of Buddhist architecture and art. The main shrine stands on a platform, on the sides of which are three rows of carved figures. The first is of swans, the second of dwarfs, and the last is of elephants. Above these there are Hindu deities carved into the rock surface. Ancient Sinhala designs, patterns and carvings, illustrating garlands of flowers, decorate the pillars. |
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The entrance of the temple exhibits the traditional sanda kada pahana or moonstone, which is in the shape of a half-moon carved with patterns and flowers. There are also two figures at the entrance with the body of a lion and the head of an elephant. |
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The viharage or image house is considered to be one of the most beautiful on the island. Here it's easy to lose track of time admiring the many paintings that tell the stories of the life of Lord Buddha and historical Buddhist tales. Other inspiring murals cover the walls, and the ceilings have illustrations that portray the planetary gods and the 12 zodiac signs. |
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You walk along corridors and under engraved arches, and pass areas where Lord Buddha is supposed to have stayed on his visit to Sri Lanka to bring peace to two royal brothers who fought over a jewelled chair. You will find a magnificent gold statue of the sleeping Lord Buddha eight metres in length. It is the main focus of the hall where people silently gather to offer flowers and meditate. The viharage features a statue of Lord Buddha in the meditative pose as well. |
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Adjoining is the 2,500-year-old dagoba or relic chamber, built in the shape of a heap of paddy. It comes to life on full moon days, especially during time of festival. This dagoba is believed to have a priceless jewelled chair enshrined on which Lord Buddha sat to preach. |
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To the left of the shrine, on a high stone platform, is a Bo-tree, the kind of tree under which Lord Buddha gained enlightenment. You observe people in prayer and meditation. The faithful perform a traditional custom and walk around the Bo-tree seven times before watering it. If you feel left out of the rituals, you can always light an oil lamp and place it amongst the others as a sign of respect. |
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The Duruthu Perahera |
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The temple is renowned for its annual Duruthu Perahera, which takes place every year in January on the day preceding the full moon. Lord Buddha's first visit to the island was over 2,500 years ago and the perahera, literally "procession" celebrates this event. It has taken place since 1927 and attracts thousands of Buddhists, non-Buddhists and tourists alike. |
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Religious festivals take place for a week leading up to the perahera. The atmosphere changes with numerous stalls inside the temple premises selling clay utensils, decorative pottery, ornaments made of terra-cotta, and hand painted earthenware jars. |
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There are three stages of the perahera, each colourful and exciting. The name given to the first is the Udamaluwa Perahera, which takes place on the upper terrace of the temple. The important moment is the ritual handing over of a sacred casket, which is followed by cannon-firing to announce the inaugural ceremony. The casket is then placed on a colourful cushion and carried with high respect. The second stage, the Pahathamaluwa |
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One of many paintings adorning the temple walls that tells a story about Lord Buddha's life |
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Perahera, is more vibrant and the procession continues with an elephant carrying the relic casket and divine insignia. The highlight of the festival is the Randoli Perahera, considered to be the most significant of the three. |
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As you look on, you will notice that the perahera is a series of events. Prepare to relive the story as the whip-crackers enter. Experience the skill of the fireball performers as they swing and twirl numerous fire-balls, creating fiery designs in the air. |
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Symbolising the country, an elephant enters carrying the national flag, followed by a group of uniformly dressed bearers who carry colourful banners representing the different districts and provinces. The procession continues with an assembly of hevisi drummers dressed in red and white, who dance to the rhythm of their different drum beats. They are followed by an elephant carrying the Buddhist flag and another elephant carrying the Kelaniya temple flag. More dancers and drummers appear and then another elephant. |
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The perahera continues with the master of ceremonies parading with his drummers and dancers, followed by two Buddhist monks in their saffron robes, signifying the brotherhood of the monks, which is known as the Sangha. |
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A troupe of Kandyan dancers, who move to the beat of their drums, herald the entrance of the majestic tusker. This tusker is of noble birth and is distinctive because he bears the sacred relic casket on his richly-decorated back. As he proudly walks in all his glory and dignity there is a white cloth (pawada) spread on the path to receive his feet. |
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Finally, the guardian of the sacred relic casket, the Basnayake Nilame, arrives, dressed in his princely Indian costume. The celebration ends with three smaller processions - namely Vishnu, Kataragama and Vibhishana. |
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